Friday, July 30, 2010

Last Day in México


Today is my de facto last day in México City. Tomorrow I'm leaving for Juarez International to go back to Atlanta. Today I went to the Cerros, finally. It was really amazing to be up there, but at that height the air is even thinner than in El Valle de Mexico. So it was rough up there. Especially when the hill got too steep to drive the dirtbike and Axel (not to be confused with 'axle') and I had to push it. Towards the top of the mountain/hill were a jail and a landfill. Further up was just trails, and fields with animals, like sheep, with some boys around 11 herding them. The kind of thing that only happens in books and movies and the bible.


What I remember the most about Los Cerros is how windy it was, how beautiful it was (I could see both Las Piramides de Teotihuacan and Popocatépetl, the enormous volcano around the Valle de México, at the same time), how windy it was, and how I learned to ride a manual-transmission dirtbike on top of a mountain.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Día 14


Today we went to UNAM. It was pretty amazing except for all the waiting I did outside of the Faculty of Letters and Philosophy building. I only have 2 more days in México. I may finally go to Los Cerros tomorrow. Maybe.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Día 10


Today was a long day. It's been a while since I wrote, but I haven't missed on saying much. Yesterday we went to Reforma, a district downtown with all the nice stuff. Also, Zona Rosa. I saw the symbol of Mexican Independence, the Ángel de la Independencia. It was pretty cool. Like a mexican statue of liberty but maybe a little smaller. Anyway we didn't really do much else there (in Reforma), but that was because it was raining so no one was out. Yesterday was also Axel's son's (Aldo el Coreano's) birthday. It's been raining for 4 days now.

Today we went to Ranchería and had carnitas. They're barbecued pork meat which you wrap in tortillas and shove in your mouth. They were good. Afterwards we went to El Centro again, this time with Rubén's grandmother and aunt. We spent some time there and then went to Xochimilco. Xochimilco is like the Venice of México; it's a series of ancient canals that used to go all the way from xochimilco, miles away from the capital, all the way to El Zócalo, where the square and the old cathedral were when I went a few days ago. Anyway, Xochimilco was a really cool place to be, because of the boating, and the food, and all of the other cool stuff. I just found out it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's pretty cool to be visiting those around the world. gotta catch 'em all.


The last thing we did today after Xochimilco was come back to the house and eat tinga. It was pretty good. Really good. It's something you definitely can't find in the states though. I liked it a lot... I feel pretty good.

PS Yesterday, I found a For Sale sign that said "No se vende por los pinches gringos de Arizona". That's pretty funny. It would seem that not many people are huge USA fans here. Especially of Arizona... Thanks GOP.


Also, the last picture is Rubén's sister Melissa. I haven't seen her since she was a baby but she asked me to take a picture. She helps me out with my Spanish, sometimes.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Día 7

Today I woke up pretty sick. I took a lot of meds and painkillers and tea, and felt good enough to leave the house before 6:30. So we left. We went to UNAM and Rubén enrolled in school. We also went to the neighborhood of Coyoacán, way downtown where Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky once lived. It was a nice place. There were a lot of fancy houses and restaurants, and a huge population of Criollos (Mexicans directly/mostly descended from conquistadores, or white spanish.) By the middle of the day, I felt much better.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Día 6


Today was a long day. Today was a crazy day, too. Today, we went to El Zocalo, the Times Square of México City. From there, we visited la Oficina Nacíonal de Correo, the National Post Office. That was pretty cool. They had vintage stamps from every world cup since 1910, they had imported structures from foundries in Italy, and they had floor upon floor of gilded rooms full of mail. And freight bicycles that they rode into the post office to collect the mail and then go back out again. That was pretty cool.

Afterwards we went to El Palacio de Bellas Artes, or the palace of fine arts. There were fine arts. We saw one of the most famous paintings in the history of México, the Man at the Crossroads by Diego Rivera. It's an amazing painting. It's meant to be a dichotomy between capitalism and communism in the 20th century, right before the beginning of World War II.

After leaving the Museum, we walked a little more along the streets, had coffee, and came up on the Metropolitan Cathedral downtown. It was huge. It was amazing. Directly in front of it was the Plaza de la Constitución, the Tian An Men of México. (without the violent history.) Downtown here is where they have they expensive franchised shops, such as Starbucks, Holiday Inn, Nike, and Adidas. Also, in the square there were a lot of open-air markets- I bought a chess set there, and also participated in an Aztec cleansing ritual. That was pretty cool. Ironically some strange stuff happened to me later.

Later, after we'd gone home, we went to play more soccer at the same place. On the way there, the car overheated and wouldn't start, and we locked it at a Tienda nearby to where we were going and took Bicitaxis the rest of the way. I met Rubén's aunt who told me a little about Cancún. I have a friend who just came from there, but it's interesting to see how expensive Cancún is, in fact. We ended up not being able to play today, which was bad luck number two. We returned to the car and started it again, now that it had cooled down, and even brought an extra battery, but the car wouldn't go. After a while, we got the car to start, but it would drive for about 200 feet and then break down again. After this happened twice, we pushed it to a nearby house that belonged to Rubén's grandfather (he owns properties and cars all over the city). Since there were 5 of us, Rubén, Adrian, Axel, and their friend Lalo who also works at Ranchería, pushing the car around wasn't a big deal, unlike when I try and push my car. I hate that. But anyway... We took the car there, which was a noisy and tiring business. And then we met Rubén's great-grandmother, who lived there, and had been alive during the regime of Emiliano Zapata, and will be 100 this year. That's amazing. I had a lot of questions, but I don't speak Spanish. Anyway, we left and took buses back to Ecatepec and then to the house. So, my luck wasn't that great today. But we'll see.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Mensaje por mis padres (Message to my parents)

I called you today. You seem to be keeping up with the blog, but could you answer the phone next time? Or you can email me or something... but really. take some time out to see that i'm alive...

Día 5

Update from yesterday: After I finished blogging, I went to take a shower. Before doing this, I had to heat the water, which is heated by the bucket filled with the water from la cisterna. They're heated by an electric coil stuck into the water. Without knowing any better, I checked to see if the water was hot by putting my hand into it, and i got shocked. It didn't hurt, it just felt funny. I wonder if it was dangerous.

Today was a long day. Ironic, because today we got to wake up at 8 instead of the usual. We woke up and went to Ranchería, where we washed cars for about an hour to help out with the business. As we were leaving in the car, we were stopped by the police. Unlike most of the Mexican federal police force, they weren't the sort that were corrupt and would take our money. In fact, they knew Rubén's brother Adrian. They just went to talk for a little while and check out cars at Ranchería. They held us up for a while, but no harm done. Afterwards, we went to las Pirámides de Teotihuacan . They were amazing. We climbed to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun to check out the view from the top of the pyramids, at around 230 feet in the air. A great view of the cerros and the surrounding countryside. There were a lot of güeros at the pyramids, actually. It was a lot of fun. I bought some really cool stuff, too, for less than $10 USD in total. I might go back to buy a few more. After the pyramids we went for quesadillas, they were good and only cost $0.65 for one, or 7 pesos.

We got back to the Ranchería, and then went home. We ate Chicharrón with rice and beans for some kind of dinner, and then relaxed for a while. Later, we went to play soccer with Rubén's brothers, for a team they organized and played at an indoor field their uncle owned. The field was so small that the score (and the opportunities to shoot on the goal) were much greater. By the end of the game, after 40 minutes, the score was tied at 14-14. To finish the game, there was a penalty round, and players from each team took turns shooting to see who would win. On my turn, I actually scored. It was unbelievable. It was a really nice goal too, right under the bar. Even still, we lost the shootout, but at least I'm not completely to blame. It's too bad I forgot to bring my camera, but whatever. It happened.

Finally, we went home. Today was a great day. Tomorrow we're going to DF, and hopefully los cerros too. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to see the Chinatown here, and the other stuff I want to see, the list of which I wrote down on the inside of a pack of gum, by the way.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Día 4


Today was the same as any other day.
Wake up at 6. Eggs. Coffee. Combi. Today we went to Rubén's former high school in Texcoco to get his certificate. And then we went out to hang out for a while with some high school friends of his. They were pretty cool. We talked about American music and sports mostly.

Later today we went to a futbol game of Adrian's, Rubén's other brother. It was pretty good to watch, and the view of the serros, or mountains, surrounding us was great.

The last thing we did today was play street soccer for a few hours right outside the gate to Rubén's house. Oh and also today I found limited edition coke bottles from the 200th anniversary of Méxican Independence.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Día 3

We woke up at 6. That's how we do it... So now I take tea or coffee every single day to deal with it. Because in México, that's also how we do it. And the coffee is always black.

When we woke up, the power was back on. So Rubén checked his scores and made it into UNAM. Click on the link to read about how this school has become the number one school in Latin America.

Rubén's acceptance to UNAM will necessitate that we go to a lot of bureaucracies around the cities in order to get ID, birth certificate, and other documents he needs to matriculate. So we'll be doing a lot of that this week. Each day after we finish, we'll do other stuff around the city. TBA.

Today, we left the house after congratulations and cold empanadas. We went to the Ranchería, and from there to the metro station by combi. (I think that's the same name of that car that belongs to the Wild Thornberrys.) Anyway, after half an hour on the subway, we arrived at Chapultepec. When we got there, it was around 8 in the morning (It's Sunday) and everything was closed. We did some looking and some talking and some walking around for almost an hour, and then went into El Museo Nacíonal de Antropologia, the National Anthropology Museum.
We saw a lot of relics and artifacts from ancient Mesoamerica. Afterwards we went to the park and rented a paddleboat for 50 pesos, about $4.70, for an hour. Just to relax.

Next, we went to El Castillo de Chapultepec. This was the castle occupied by Maximillian, the administrator of México appointed by Napoleon Bonaparte, during the 19th century. Of course, there were a lot of really cool royal knicknacks and furniture inside. It was a really long climb to the top, but when we got there, we could see for miles around D. F. de la Ciudad de México, or the Federal District of Mexico City. I took plenty of pictures with all of this.

We left the castillo and made our way back to the subway. On the way, we passed a clown, un payaso, who was grabbing foreigners out of the crowd and getting them to participate in his show. He had me dance with some girl from Korea in order to make her boyfriend jealous, lol. He was a payaso for sure, but it was a good show.

Later, we came home, and later went to eat tacos. The tacos in México, like most foreign foods, are smaller than their American counterparts. That's because Americans love to eat, but hate to move their hand from their plate to their mouth, so they just eat bigger portions. Mexican tacos, instead, are really small and you eat like 4 or 5 in a sitting.

Now it's the end of the day. This blogging crap always keeps me up late, and i wake up and i'm way tired. But of course, that's what black coffee is for. It tastes terrible but it gets the job done.

Day 2

Today, we woke up at 6:30. We had scrambled eggs with bacon for breakfast, and left the house with Rubén's dad for the Rancheria, where his family's business is. From there, we went to a busy road and got into a van. For 8 pesos, we rode the van all the way into Texcoco, around 30km away. We went there to go to a class at UAEM, Rubén's university, and one of the best public schools in México. We went to take a class in teaching languages, which I got to participate for free in as a guest. I was tired that morning, because I'd only had 7 hours of sleep for the past 2 days, so I drank coffee, because when in Rome, do as the Romans do, of course. So I drank some coffee and managed to stay awake for the rest of the class.

After class, around 1pm, we went to downtown Texcoco and had a look around el mercado (the market)* as well as the square, the plaza de la cultura, and the oldest cathedral in México. I ate snack food and took pictures in the labyrinthine indoor market before we left for home. Back at the house we ate homemade enchiladas and made more plans to go back to Texcoco, to play futbol, and to go into the hills around the city to look down on it from above.


Afterwards, it rained. A little later we went with Axel to buy empanadas and a fruit called tuna. It's a lot like a tiny, green watermelon. The empanadas were delicious, they were from an adjacent state called Hidalgo. On the drive there (around half an hour of driving right through the Valle de México) I saw the pyramids, as well as some amazing colonial architecture. We picked up Axel's family and Rubén's sister from a party and made for home.

The power here has been out all day. Apparently random power & water outages are a fact of life in México City. Everything has continued almost as normal, but without some critical utilities like streetlights or traffic lights, it's a little more dangerous. The whole of this side of the city is without power, but they expect it to return tomorrow or within a few days. Still, no one complains to the authorities that they pay to provide them with consistent power -- there's nothing that can be accomplished that way. They're just going to wait it out. So am I.

*Again, so much like Beijing...

Friday, July 16, 2010

Day 1

Today, I left Atlanta and flew to México City's Benito Juarez International Airport. As I walked along the jetway, I began to wonder why the airports in developing countries outside the States always seem to look so much nicer than Hartsfield-Jackson, LaGuardia, Dulles, whatever. México City International and Beijing International were both state-of-the-art fancy, with glass, stainless steel, and modernist, ergonomic architecture everywhere I looked. Rubén, my friend from la Ciudad, told me that the México City airport had recently renovated, like China's Beijing International. My theory is that since countries like China and Mexico were introduced later to flight, and thus built airports later, that they were therefore more modern, being brand-new at the time of their opening.

But I digress.

I got to the airport, gracias-ed my way through customs, and proceeded to wait for 20 minutes for my bag to come off of the extremely slow baggage claim. While I was waiting, I met a pair of Chinese businesspeople who told me about their company based in México City, that manufactured and exported textiles. The Chinese guy I talked to spoke Chinese, English, and Spanish, and had just come back from a client meeting in Atlanta to his base in México City. He told me that he had studied Spanish at university in China, and within 2 years had enough of a working knowledge of the language to get started in Latin America as an entrepreneur. It was really interesting-- and then my bag finally came.

While going through customs for the second time, I got an orange that I had forgotten to declare taken from me... :(. I met Rubén and his brother, Adrian, right outside of customs. Because of the luggage debacle i had kept them waiting for almost a half hour. When we left the airport parking deck, I was immediately reminded of Beijing. The bustle and confusion of the hundreds of cars trying to exit through the bottleneck under the burning sun struck me as a complete parallel to the way China was.

The first stop from the airport was Adrian's house. His mother-in-law has a salon in the front of her house and the house in the back... pretty cool. Afterwards we went to the business that Rubén's family owns, a car dealership in Texcoco, a district in the northeastern part of the city. I met his abuelo and his family, and then we went to his house.

Rubén's house is divided between 5 rooms on two floors, all off of a central courtyard, or patio. To go from room to room, you walk outside under the shades to the next room. Same for the toilet. And the well. Sometimes the house's water supply is cut off (for maintenance or whatever), so they get their water from a well in their courtyard. Pretty exotic. I ate some beef and homemade guacamole and then went to play soccer. I played street soccer with kids from the neighborhood until we were banished by a grouchy woman who complained about the ball hitting her door. Naturally, we threw the ball at her door again a few more times, and then took off down the street. Running for cover on dirt roads was a slumdog millionaire kind of experience. Crazy.

After we were done running, we continued for a little ways until we got to the soccer fields. The Ciudad has tons of soccer fields that are free and open to use, so we did. I discovered my body's intolerance for the high, mountainous altitudes of México City as i panted and wheezed up up and down the soccer field. As the sun set I could see the mountains rising around me. This city is surrounded by mountains, and at night they light up. Too cool.

I met Rubén's other brother, Axel, and his wife and kids. Tomorrow, Rubén and I will go to Texcoco, to his college, UAEM, for an English class, and then to explore the city. Looking forward to that too.

Introduction

Here goes my first post. I'm getting started a little late on talking about my take on México City, Texcoco, DF, and all of the other places I plan on visiting, but I'm gonna get into it and hopefully have even more content and depth (in relation the amount of time i spend here) than I had in my Beijing 2009 blog. We'll see. I think I'll miss out on less, anyway, since I'm not going with a large group, but just on my own with my friend. Fingers crossed anyway.